UI Expedition Groups Return to Moscow after Climbs-of-a-Lifetime
Tuesday, June 28 2005
June 28, 2005 MOSCOW – Two University of Idaho expedition groups have returned to Moscow after traveling to opposite corners of the globe. The first group traveled to central Peru, climbing two peaks in the Cordillera Blanca Mountains. Climbers confronted difficult climbing conditions on routes that until recently were straight-forward glacier climbs, said Outdoor Program Coodinator Mike Beiser, who participated in the Peruvian climb along with five UI students. During the 21-day trip, the group summitted Ishinca at 18,134 feet and Urus, at 17,777 feet, both located in the Ishinca Valley near Huaraz. "Climate change has had a dramatic effect in accelerating glacial recession,” according to Beiser. “We found steeper glacier faces, and in some places, freshly exposed granite where the glacier completely melted away." A few days after graduating from UI, Matt Erlandson of Moscow climbed Ishinca. Forget pop quizzes and final papers, he said climbing the peak was “the hardest thing I have ever done.” At the 14,000 foot base camp, Erlandson suffered from an altitude-related sickness, along with a stomach virus. “We thought we would have to evacuate him to a lower elevation camp, but he adjusted and kept up, climbing both peaks,” Beiser said. Other UI participants on the Peruvian expedition included: Bailey Arlit of McCall; Jay Loveland of Troy and Kelly Crow of Atlanta, Ga. On the other expedition to Alaska’s Mount McKinley, climbers encountered setbacks, including bad weather and serious altitude sickness. “McKinley’s bad weather and extremely cold temperatures are legendary amongst climbers,” according to Beiser. Those participating in the Alaskan expedition included UI staff researcher Lance Roth, along with Mike Zobott of Flagstaff, Ariz., Andrew McKenzie, an alumnus from Grangeville, and Jessica Drees of Kansas City, Mo. Drees is a past participant of the Juneau Icefield Project sponsored by UI. The Alaska trip is something Zobott and his fellow climbers won’t forget. Zobott, a UI student who also works as a fireman and emergency medical technician, suffered from a serious bout of altitude sickness. In fact, he showed symptoms of High Altitude Pulmonary Adema (HAPE). “The group recognized the life-threatening symptoms and assisted Mike down to the 14,000-foot camp where he was seen by doctors,” Beiser said. “Helicopter evacuation was considered,” he added, “but Mike recovered rapidly with the descent in elevation.” Once Zobott was under medical supervision, the remaining three climbers – McKenzie, Roth and Drees – decided to move back to the 17,200-foot camp for another try. A full day’s climb put them back in position for a summit attempt. Unfortunately, the weather turned bad. For seven days, the three climbers were pinned in tents by whipping 50-mile-per-hour winds. “Finally, the weather broke,” Beiser noted. “They were able to summit the 20,320-foot peak, after spending 13 days at the 17,200-foot camp.” The UI Outdoor Program sponsors various mountaineering expeditions throughout the year. It is a non-profit service organization dedicated to providing the university and the surrounding community with education and resources for wilderness-based, human powered outdoor and adventure activities. The UI Outdoor Program promotes teamwork, leadership and growth through environmentally sound experiences. For more information, go to www.asui.uidaho.edu/outdoors/. Contacts: Mike Beiser, UI Outdoor Program coordinator, (208) 885-6810, mike@sub.uidaho.edu or Leslie Einhaus, University Communications, (208) 885-6489, lesliee@uidaho.edu (NOTE TO WRITERS/EDITORS: Photographs are available by e-mailing mikeb@sub.uidaho.edu.) -30- MB/LE-6/28/05-STP/REC
About the University of Idaho
The University of Idaho helps students to succeed and become leaders. Its land-grant mission furthers innovative scholarly and creative research to grow Idaho's economy and serve a statewide community. From its main campus in Moscow, Idaho, to 70 research and academic locations statewide, U-Idaho emphasizes real-world application as part of its student experience. U-Idaho combines the strength of a large university with the intimacy of small learning communities. It is home to the Vandals. For information, visit www.uidaho.edu.